I’m not gonna lie. As a kid, I absolutely hated Thit Ba Roi Mam Ruoc. The moment my mom cracked open that jar of mam ruoc, the intense, funky aroma of fermented shrimp paste would fill the air. And when it hit the hot pan? Even worse. That smell would intensify and invade every nook and cranny of our tiny apartment, and there was just no escape. Beyond the smell, eating it was a whole other struggle. The little fibrous bits of lemongrass always got stuck between my teeth, and the whole experience just felt like something I would never enjoy.
Funny how life works, though. As you get older, your palate changes, and you start craving the very dishes you once pushed away. That’s exactly what happened with me and this dish. There’s this pull toward the food your parents made for you, the flavors that shaped your childhood, even the ones you swore you’d never eat again. Now I want this dish all the time because it reminds me of my mom, and there is truly nothing quite like that flavor and aroma. Once it clicks for you, it clicks for good.
I will say this, though: if you didn’t grow up eating fermented shrimp paste, there’s a real chance this dish might challenge you the same way it challenged me as a kid. It’s absolutely an acquired taste. The aroma is bold, the flavor profile is deep and funky, and it doesn’t apologize for being any of those things. But if you’re someone who loves to push past your comfort zone and gets excited about stank umami and authentic home cooking from other cultures, you might fall in love with this recipe the way I did.
Thit Ba Roi Mam Ruoc (Thịt Ba Rọi Mắm Ruốc) translates loosely to pork belly cooked with fermented shrimp paste. It’s a beloved dish in Vietnamese home cooking, particularly popular in central Vietnam and Huế-style cuisine. The dish combines fatty, tender slices of pork belly with the salty, deeply savory punch of mắm ruốc, brightened by fragrant lemongrass and a touch of heat from Thai chilies. Think of mam ruoc the way you might think of anchovy paste in Italian cooking or doenjang in Korean cuisine. On its own, it smells incredibly strong. But once you cook it down with aromatics and sugar, it transforms into something rich, complex, and completely addictive.
Mắm ruốc is a Vietnamese condiment made from ground shrimp that has been salted and left to ferment. It’s a cornerstone ingredient in Vietnamese cooking, used in everything from dipping sauces to stir fries to braised dishes like this one. You can find it at most Asian grocery stores, usually labeled as “fermented shrimp paste” or “shrimp sauce.” It comes in a jar, and yes, it will smell potent when you open it. Every brand varies slightly from one another, and some may end up being saltier or sweeter. Make sure you get a high-quality one and adjust seasonings to your preference.
Choose a center-cut pork belly with good fat distribution. You want layers of meat, fat, and ideally skin. The fat renders during cooking, giving the dish its signature richness. Lean cuts simply won’t deliver the same result.
Mince the lemongrass as finely as you can. The smaller you cut it, the more evenly it distributes through the sauce, and the less fibrous the final dish will be.
Let the sauce reduce properly. The dish is done when the sauce is thick and glossy, coating the pork in a caramelized sheen. If you pull it off the heat too early, the flavors won’t concentrate the way they should.
Pork belly is the traditional and best choice for this dish. The fat content is essential to the texture and flavor. Pork shoulder can work in a pinch, but you won’t get the same melt-in-your-mouth richness.
Any well-stocked Asian grocery store will carry mắm ruốc, usually in the condiment or sauce aisle. Look for jars labeled “fermented shrimp paste” or “mắm ruốc.” It keeps well in the refrigerator for months.
Steamed white rice is essential. Sliced cucumbers and extra Thai chilies round out the plate perfectly. Some people also enjoy it with fresh herbs, boiled vegetables, or a light soup on the side.
Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 to 4 days. Reheat in a skillet over medium heat. The flavors actually deepen overnight, so leftovers are arguably even better than the first serving.
This post is part of a collaboration with The Asian American Foundation (TAAF). All opinions…
We are officially in the thick of soup season y'all. The Seattle sky has turned…
It was my first trip to Hawaii, and Giovanni's was the place. Their Garlic Shrimp…
Over the last few months, this has become one of my go-to breakfast meals. Recently,…
This post is sponsored by Alaska Airlines, which hosted my Business Class flight to Seoul.…
Vietnamese rice plates rank among my favorite dishes in the world, and they come in…
View Comments
This is dish is AMAZING!!!! I made it for my non-viet friends and am so looking forward to making it for my Vietnamese mom!
If you have any recommendations on sides - we're open!